Installation  Glue          Click
		GLUED FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS    Download PDF - Glue Installation     1. When the flooring is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to installing PE foam (3/32”- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8”/20 cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2”/5 cm up the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall. Set the distance to the wall (5/16”/8 mm) using the laminate flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without gluing. 2. For accurate cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row, so that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16”/8 mm in play at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges. When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the patterned side must be placed facing downwards. 3. Important: The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first (still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered spacers to ensure squareness. 4. Check that the first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16”/40 cm from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way you will ensure the best appearance. 5. Gluing the panels. The adhesive is to be applied to the top of the tongue of the panel on the floor (as per the sketch), both lengthwise and crosswise. Also apply adhesive to the bottom of the groove of the panel being installed, both lengthwise and crosswise. Allow excess adhesive a slight drying period (+/-15 minutes), then remove with a plastic spatula. Clean remaining adhesive film with a damp cloth. Cloth should be rinsed frequently. 6. Now panel to panel: carefully but firmly join the panels completely with hammer and tapping block. Once the seams are clean and tight, it is recommended to tape the seam with a good quality tape (i.e. 2”/ 5 cm ) to avoid plank movement. Warning: do not damage the tongue side of the panel. Ensure that the tongue of the panel is seated in the groove of the Laminate Flooring tapping block! 7. Ensure that the first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or straightedge will help to verify this. Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a solid floor construction and maximize appearance. 8. And now row after row: Always place the first panels of a row together without gluing, fit together, saw to size - and then glue. Always use the specially designed pull-bar for the last panel. Note: An alternate panel tightening technique is the patented Quick-Fit™ system. Simply attach suction cups on alternating panels and tighten straps using the lever-action device. 9. Where heating pipes or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor, first cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel beside the actual position, measure the recesses with a ruler and drawt in. 10. Now drill out the marked sections: remember the 5/16”/ 8mm in spacing - on all sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe + 5/8”/16 mm in expansion allowance. 11. Saw the panel through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw! 12. Apply glue to the sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating pipe (using the pull-bar). 13. When a doorframe has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side upwards. 14. Now we’re in the home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a straight-edge. Don’t forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel along the marking. 15. Your installation is almost finished! Fit the last panel carefully using the pull-bar. Allow 24 hours before you walk on the floor.
		CLICK FLOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS   Back to Top   Download PDF - Click Installation 1. When the flooring is to be installed directly on concrete, a PE film must first cover the subfloor (6 - 8 mil /0.2 mm vapor barrier), prior to installing PE foam (3/32”- 2.4 mm). Overlap PE film by 8”/20 cm and tape the seams. Allow PE film to rise +/- 2”/5 cm up the walls. Lay foam in the same direction as the floor. Do not overlap. When starting the installation, it is best to begin in a corner. Lay the first panel with the groove towards the wall. Set the distance to the wall (5/16”/8 mm) using the laminate flooring spacers. Then fit the first 3 rows of panels without gluing. 2. For accurate cutting of the last panel, rotate through 180 degrees and (with the pattern upwards) place beside the already existing row,so that tongue lies over tongue. Include the 5/16”/8 mm in play at the end. When using hand saw, always saw from the upper surface of the panel in order to avoid splintering the edges. When using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw the patterned side must be placed facing downwards. 3. Important: The panels must follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not straight, then the line of the wall must be marked on the first (still unglued) panel row using a spacer. Either saw the panels longitudinally according to the marking or use the tapered spacers to ensure squareness. 4. Check that the first row is straight using the guideline. Start each new row with the leftover piece from the previous row. However, the end of each panel row should be staggered by at least 16”/40 cm from the previous row. If not, shorten the first panel. This way you will ensure the best appearance. 5. Position the panels to be installed on the same level so that the tongue and groove are laying parallel to each other with a minimum of spacing. Join the two panels by lifting one panel and sliding it into the other panel. Start on the right side and work towards the left side. Once the tongue has “C L I C K E D” into position in the groove, the panels are firmly and securely jointed together by the UNICLIC connection system. 6. Ensure that the first two rows are laid exactly straight. A chalk line or straightedge will help to verify this. Note: It is imperative to stagger the end seams to ensure a solid floor construction and maximize appearance. 7. Where heating pipes or room dividers, for example, protrude from the floor, first cut the panel to the correct length, then lay the panel beside the actual position, measure the recesses with a ruler and draw in. 8. Now drill out the marked sections: remember the 5/16”/ 8mm in spacing - on all sides! This means hole diameter = diameter of heating pipe + 5/8”/16 mm in expansion allowance. 9. Saw the panel through the bored holes. When using a handsaw, remember: always saw the panels from the upper side. Only place the pattern side facing downwards when using a jigsaw or hand-held circular saw! 10. Apply glue to the sawn-off piece and press tightly together behind the heating pipe (using the pull-bar). 11. When a doorframe has to be shortened: lay a panel next to the frame (with the pattern side downward). Cut into the doorframe with a straight back saw, then slide panels under the frame with pattern side upwards. 12. Now we’re in the home stretch! Measure the exact width of the last row. To do this lay a panel on the previous row. Then lay a second panel on the panel to be measured with the tongue to the wall and use a straight-edge. Don’t forget the wall spacing! Saw the panel along the marking.